Another great day at our annual KHF AGM and Conference on Saturday, with a broad range of topics and plenty of discussion! Angharad Thomas took us on a tour through the history of two-colour glove-knitting, starting right from the earliest nalbindning examples in only one colour, presenting her conclusions so far. Tom van Deijnen introduced us to different methods of repairing knitting and wowed us with his meticulous mending skills, including a jumper repair commissioned by the Knitting and Crochet Guild. Amy Twigger Holroyd recapped the last ten yearsâ development of âKeep & Shareâ, the experimental knitwear label and open craft practice, impressing us with her beautiful knitting and thoughtful approach to her work. Barbara Smith shared her research on knitting and crochet in Britain and the Empire during the First World War, revealing some surprising facts and surviving items including some which can be matched to patterns in wartime magazines.
Joyce Meader showed us a small portion of her collection, a veritable treasure trove of knitting and crochet patterns for the armed forces from the 1800s to now, with remarkable garments she reproduced from them. Our progress was recorded at the AGM with lively debate and fresh ideas for moving onwards and upwards. Look out for some interesting events next year!
A big thank you to our wonderful speakers for their inspiring and intriguing talks. Thank you also to Professor Sandy Black, Tricia Basham and all involved in organising the event, for making the day so enjoyable. And finally thanks to everyone who brought open minds, interesting questions, stimulating conversation â and their knitting!
In the Loop 4 will be held 26-28 August 2015 at the University of Glasgow, in association with the School of Humanities and the ‘Knitting in the Round’ project. It is intended to reflect the place of Scotland in the history of knitting and the city of Glasgow in the world of fashion.
In the Loop is a series of interdisciplinary and international conferences on knitting and crochet. 2015 sees the fifth to be held so far (the numbering is correct, theÂ fourth conference in 2013 was In the Loop 3.5). Professor Sandy Black, Knitting History Forum’s Chair, was keynote speaker at the first conference and the following events have featured an impressive array of speakers and topics.
The Call for Papers for next year invites proposals for papers and poster presentations on the theme “From Craft to Couture”,Â encompassing the range of applications of knitting (and crochet) in the past, present and future and in a variety of contexts. Applications are encouraged from all “practitioners, academics and researchers, designers, makers, artists, technicians, those working at home, in business and industry, education, archives, libraries and museums.” The deadline is 15 January 2015.
Fans of Kirstie Buckland’s wonderful black-and-white glove as featured on our website may be interested in the Sanquhar Knitting Workshop this Saturday 1 November 2014 in Sanquhar, Dumfriesshire. Hosted by University of Glasgow it’s billed …as an “ideal opportunity to watch, question and learn how to knit Sanquhar from the experts”.
This is an informal event for knitters and non-knitters alike. Throughout the day there will be tours of the Sanquhar Tolbooth Museum focusing on the Sanquhar knitting collection, local knitters demonstrating traditional Sanquhar patterns and designs and opportunities to try Sanquhar knitting yourself (wool and needles provided). The Sanquhar knitting project will demonstrate Sanquhar knitting by machine.
Three speakers are also scheduled: Lynn Abrams of the University of Glasgow on âScottish knitting in the Scottish landscapeâ, Tom van Deijnen (TomofHolland) on âSanquhar Gloves: from piecework to a modern classicâ and Fiona Scott of Makeworks on âThe value of making: focus on Sanquharâ.
The knitting workshop runs from 11.00-3.00 at Aâ the Airts, High Street, Sanquhar. Admission is free. http://all-the-airts.com/
The Centenary Stitches WWI project began as a response to plea for assistance from WAGscreen, makers of the film âTell Them of Usâ. Set in the First World War and drawing on surviving letters, memoirs, photographs and other artefacts, the film follows the fortunes of a real Lincolnshire soldier, Robert Crowder, showing through the view point of his family and the home front how the war affected an ordinary British household.
Producer and costumier Pauline Loven understood the significance of knitting and crochet in 1910s Britain and tweeted for help sourcing original patterns and creating reproductions for the cast. The response was overwhelming, with researchers, knitters and crocheters all over the world mobilising to form a group recreating period garments and supporting the film. British yarns were donated by Rowan, Texere, Jamiesons of Shetland, Frangipani and Blacker. In less than a year the group grew to over 300 volunteers, co-ordinating efforts via Facebook and Ravelry, and accessed funding through the Heritage Lottery Fund âFirst World War, Then and Nowâ programme. Period patterns were supplied by several sources including the collection of the Knitting and Crochet Guild. These were tested and modernised and feature in the film together with new designs by Elizabeth Lovick, based on Crowder family photographs. Volunteers have blogged their progress at http://orkneytoomaha.wordpress.com/, a testament to the extraordinary motivation and generosity of the textile community.
The project has developed even further, with Elizabeth Lovick editing ‘Centenary Stitches’, a book of over 70 knitting and crochet patterns inspired by or reproduced from 1910s originals. âCentenary Stitches’ will be published to coincide with the release of âTell Them of Usâ, which premieres this November. Visit the website to learn more about this unique group and see pictures of their work, including a shawl by Joyce Meader, speaker at the KHF conference this November http://centenarystitches.wordpress.com/
Doors open at 10:30 for registration and Show and Tell so please feel free to bring items for discussion. The AGM will start at 11 and we break for lunch from 12:30 to 1:45. The KHF Conference will start at two. Speakers this year include Angharad Thomas, Tom van Deijnen (Tom of Holland), Amy Twigger Holroyd, Barbara Smith and Joyce Meader, covering topics from the history of two-colour gloves, sustainable knitwear and knitting during the First World War to traditional repair techniques. There will be more time for questions and discussion from 4:45, after all the speakers have delivered their papers.
Non-members are very welcome to attend. Tickets cost ÂŁ20 and can be booked in advance or on the door. The price of a ticket is included in KHF membership which is ÂŁ15 annually. Members may renew or subscribe on the day. Lunch is not provided so please bring your own or buy locally. The LCF is just off Oxford St so there is plenty of choice!
According to the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey, one unnamed journalist said “knitwear has become interesting”. This is hardly news to students of knitting history. Knitting constantly evolves, develops and surprises.
The thoughtful, intelligent selection on display in the mezzanine gallery at the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey is proof, if proofÂ were needed, that knitting is not only relevant now but at the forefront of design and technological development. ‘Visionary Knitwear â new directions’ is guest-curated by our very own Sandy Black, Chair of the Knitting History ForumÂ and Professor of Fashion and Textile Design and Technology of the London College of Fashion.Â ‘Visionary Knitwear’Â showcases contemporary knitting design at its best: innovative, bold, sophisticated and subversive.
Exploring the work both of established designers and recent graduates, all of whom have studied in the UK, the exhibit also highlights the influence of UK design education on knitwear in the global fashion industry. Of the designers featured, Juliana Sissons gave a presentation at the Knitting History Forum Conference in 2011, while Amy Twigger Holroyd will be speaking at the 2015 KHF Conference this November. Head of the Fashion and Textile Museum, Celia Joicey said, “The Museum is privileged to be working with the globally respected academic and designer Sandy Black to highlight the most exciting aesthetic and technical developments. Her expertise and keen eye provide a snapshot of why contemporary knitwear is so exciting.”
“knitwear has become interesting”
‘Visionary Knitwear â new directions’ complements the museum’s main exhibition, ‘Knitwear Chanel to Westwood‘ and ends similarly on 18 January 2015. Don’t miss it.
The exhibition ‘KNITWEAR Chanel to Westwood’ is now at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London. Curated by Mark and Cleo Butterfield, this exhibition views twentieth century knitting through the lens of their personal collection. The exhibits are nearly all drawn from their archive and cover everyday handknits to high fashion, including early swimwear, 1960s crochet, punk, WWII, folk designs, Pop Art novelty knits, 1980s clubwear and couture. A separate, complementary display of 21st century knitwear, ‘Visionary Knitwear â new directions’, is being staged in the mezzanine gallery.
Open from now until 18 January 2015, tickets can booked in advance or purchased at the door. More information available on the F&TM Facebook page or their website http://ftmlondon.org/
Save the date! Our annual Knitting History Forum AGM and Conference will be held on Saturday 8 November 2014, at the London College of Fashion.
The conference programme is yet to be finalised but the AGM is usually held in the morning, and the conference after lunch. Speakers are drawn from a wide range of specialisations and discussion is always lively. Non-members are welcome.
A Call for Papers has been issued for a two-day conference hosted by The Museum of London in September next year. ‘The Look of Austerity’ will “explore the effect of post-war austerity on the appearance of people and cities… ‘The Look of Austerity aims to re-examine the post-war period, looking at the changing meaning and the face of austerity and exploring the real implications of austerity policies and culture on sartorial aesthetics. Focusing on the immediate post-war period, specifically the years 1945-1951, we invite papers that examine the popular experience of obtaining and wearing clothes throughout the western world during these turbulent and changing times, exploring the often overlooked areas of ready-to-wear innovation, international dialogues, and approaches that look beyond some of the popular myths of post-war fashion.”
The conference will take place at the Museum of London, on Friday 11 and Saturday 12 September 2015. Presentations are invited of 20 to 25 minutes’ duration â material culture and interdisciplinary contributions are particularly encouraged. Topics for discussion may include:
fashion consumption and austerity, particularly popular and everyday experiences of obtaining and wearing clothes
the production and distribution of ready-to-wear
the role of couture after the war
dialogues across Western nations and fashion capitals, particularly Paris, New York, Berlin and Rome
visual and written representations of fashion in newspapers, magazines, advertisements, cinema and amateur film
biographic approaches, for example diaries, novels and short stories
the designer in a culture of austerity
the connection between austerity and glamour
re-emergence of the austerity look in later periods, for example in the 1970s/1990s
the legacy of the look of austerity
The effects of war did not end immediately in 1945. In Britain clothes rationing lasted until 1949 while rationing only ended altogether in 1954. The ‘Make Do And Mend’ mentality of the war years continued long after, as Europe began the slow process of rebuilding. Knitting played vital part in the budgets of many households and really should be represented appropriately by a paper at this conference. So put on your [knitted] thinking caps!
The deadline for submission of proposals is Monday 27 October 2014. Further information is on the Museum of London website, where you can also download a copy of the Call For Papers.
“The materiality of textiles and clothing â under the surface” was a recent two-day workshop organised as part of the research programme, Costume, Clothing, Consumption and Culture. CCCC is investigating early modern textiles and dress and is run jointly between The Centre for Textile Research and the National Museum of Denmark.
Delegates from universities in Denmark, Finland, India, Great Britain and Italy, curators, conservators, students and a multi-disciplinary network of scholars gathered
to visit the National Museum of Denmark and the Museum of Copenhagen, taking in the Renaissance exhibition, attending talks, discussionsÂ and a shoemaking demo. They also viewed early textiles from the reserve collections and excavated finds in the process of being conserved.
Paula Hohti has posted a well-illustrated report, including large pictures of early knitted hats, stockings, gloves and mittens not commonly seen outside Denmark.
Just in time for the May Bank Holiday, here’s a further selection of radio programmes on knitting courtesy of the BBC. These programmes and clips cover various topics such as the British wool industry, knitting during the Libyan war, “Scandi knits”, craft and community, knitting on Fair Isle and Kaffe Fassett. Pour yourself a drink, pick up your knitting and enjoy the long weekend!
The latest issue of âTextile: The Journal of Cloth and Cultureâ is a special edition devoted to knitting. Edited by Jonathan Faiers, it contains articles based on presentations originally given at the conference âIn the Loop 3: The Voices of Knittingâ, held in Winchester, September 2012.
The papers are:
ââIn the Loopâ: Challenging and Disrupting the Stereotypes of Knittingâ â Linda Newington
âA Sweater to Die for: Fair Isle and Fair Play in The Killingâ â Jo Turney
âKnitting and Well-beingâ â Betsan Corkhill, Jessica Hemmings, Angela Maddock, Jill Riley
âDiscovering Knitting at the Regent Street Polytechnic, 1898â1948â â Anna McNally
âKnitting and the Olympic Games: Clothing, Competition, Culture, and Commerceâ â Martin Polley
âStitched UpâRepresentations of Contemporary Vintage Style Mania and the Dark Side of the Popular Knitting Revivalâ â Emmanuelle Dirix
âKnitting and Catastropheâ â Jonathan Faiers
Celebrate St George’s Day with a BBC radio documentary exploring knitting! Jane Garvey will present a lively programme on knitting past and present, from the American Revolution through to the current knitting renaissance, touching on various subjects such as ‘guerilla’ knitting, the work of composer HafdĂs BjarnadĂłtti and chitin yarns. Among those taking part are design historian Dr Joanne Turney, Christine Kingdom of the UK Hand Knitting Association and artist, writer and designer, Rachael Matthews of ‘Prick Your Finger’. With a running time of 28 minutes this will not be an in-depth investigation but any positive representation of knitting will surely be a good thing.
‘A Gripping Yarn’ is due for broadcast on BBC Radio 4, this Wednesday 23 April at 11 AM. Listen live online at the Radio 4 website and for seven days after transmission
Dr Maj Ringgaard, an expert in textiles and conservation from the Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen, has researched early knitted waistcoats or vests. At the Knitting History Forum Conference in 2011 she delivered a paper on 17th and 18th Century star-patterned, knitted waistcoats in Scandinavia. Some of her findings will be published later this month in an exciting anthology which she has also co-edited.
‘Silk Knitted Waistcoats – a 17th-century fashion item’ will be available in ‘Fashionable Encounters: Perspectives and trends in textile and dress in the Early Modern Nordic World’, together with 15 other papers on dress, fashion and consumption in Denmark, Norway, Sweden Finland, Iceland, the Faroe Isles and Greenland. ‘Early Modern’ is defined here as 1500 to 1850, though the majority of papers are 17th or 18th century. Topics are both object-based and theoretical in their analysis and include merchant and shop inventories, the whaling industry, sumptuary laws, christening garments, taste and consumption, clothing construction, liturgical textiles and an English fashion doll, among others.
‘Fashionable Encounters: Perspectives and trends in textile and dress in the Early Modern Nordic World’ is jointly edited by Tove Engelhardt Mathiasen, Marie-Louise Nosch, Maj Ringgaard, Kirsten Toftegaard, and Mikkel Venborg Pedersen. It will be published by Oxbow Books on 30 May 2014 as Volume 14 of their Ancient Textile Series.
Kaffe Fassett celebrates 50 years of art and design with “KAFFE 2014 â The Colourful World of Kaffe Fassett” at the American Museum in Britain, the decorative arts museum in Bath. This exhibition showcases the work of the artist and designer best known for his use of colour. Exhibits include a variety of textiles, including quilts, needlepoint and beadwork as well as knitting, in addition to visual artworks by Fassett.
There’s still time to catch the exhibition ‘Knitting 1914-2014’.
Celebrating knitting in the 100 years since the First World War, the exhibition features historical items from the Knitting Reference Library and Knitting Collections held by the University of Southampton Library, together with new work by knitwear students at Winchester School of Art.