Knitting History Forum is pleased to announce that Dr Roslyn Chapman will be speaking at the Knitting History Conference on Saturday 19th November 2016, at the London College of Fashion. Her presentation, Cultural Sensitivities: Debunking the myths of Shetland lace, uses case studies to illustrate how traditional narratives of knitting history can be altered in retelling, and that even “detailed provenance cannot always be accepted as fact.”
The final programme of speakers and sessions for the Knitting History Conference , is now confirmed as:
2.00-2.45 Gieneke Arnolli – Curator of Textiles & Fashion, Fries Museum, The Netherlands Typically Frisian lace knitting, between fact and fiction and Curating the Knitting exhibition ‘Breien!’
2.45-3.25 Hanna Bäckström – PhD Candidate in Textile Studies, Uppsala University, Sweden The publication of knitting and crochet patterns in Northern Europe 1790-1870 and Brief remarks on recent knitting history research in Sweden
3.35-4.00 Michelle Hanks – PhD Candidate London College of Fashion The Hand-Knitted Gift: using knitting as a research tool
4.05-4.35 Roslyn Chapman – PhD, University of Glasgow Cultural Sensitivities: Debunking the myths of Shetland lace
4.05-4.35 Discussion: Reflections on knitting in the media – how would we represent the history of knitting? With Joyce Meader, Jane Malcolm-Davies and Sandy Black, following their contributions to a documentary, The Secret History of Knitting. All contributions are welcome – please follow the link to watch the documentary online before this session [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJiN9GNrDpA].
We welcome non-members and new members! Tickets cost £35 to non-members and can be booked in advance or on the door. If you have not joined KHF as a member, you can use the PayPal button below to buy your ticket. See payment methods page for alternative ways to pay.
The Textile Society have sent us notice of their annual conference next month : ‘Textile Futures: Technology, Materials and Preservation’. Saturday 5th November, Wellcome Trust, 215 Euston Road, London.
This conference will examine recent advances in textile design, materials and technology, considering emerging ideas and approaches that may change the way we design, make, use and preserve textiles in the future.
Our keynote speaker is Janis Jefferies, Professor of Visual Arts and Research at Goldsmiths, University of London. Janis will be speaking on her research that examines the relationship between culture and technology, including wearable devices as ‘intelligent textiles’. Dr Kate Lloyd from the industry organisation ‘Textile Intelligence’, will be speaking on thermochromics and advances in textile print technology, and Dr Celina Jones from the University of Manchester, will be discussing her research on textile printing and sustainability, looking at low impact techniques, reducing the use of colorants, and new ways of distressing denim. We will also be joined by Anne French, Textile Conservator and Collections Care Manager at the Whitworth Art Gallery, speaking on the challenges of conserving increasingly complex textile materials for the future, and Professor Carole Collet from Central Saint Martins, speaking about her work with the design & living systems lab, biotextiles and the advantages of biological tools for a more sustainable textile future.
We hope you can join us at the Wellcome Trust for a day of thought provoking presentations and discussion on ‘Textile Futures, Technology, Materials and Preservation’. The conference begins at 11.15am and finishes at 5.15pm. Lunch and refreshments are included. Booking is via Eventbrite.
Euston is the closest train/underground station to the Wellcome Trust. Just walk from Euston to the main road, cross over and the Wellcome Trust building is on the right hand side.
Join us for the Knitting History Forum 2016 Conference and AGM on Saturday 19th November, at the London College of Fashion, 20 Princes St.
Registration opens in room 418 at 10:30AM, with the first session an informal Show and Tell. Please bring items for discussion! The AGM for KHF members runs from 11.00AM to 12:45, followed by a break for lunch. Lunch is not provided so please bring your own or buy locally. The London College of Fashion is just off Oxford Street and there are many places to eat nearby.
The Knitting History Conference starts promptly at 2.00PM. Speakers and sessions for 2016 include:
2.00-2.45 Gieneke Arnolli – Curator of Textiles & Fashion, Fries Museum, The Netherlands Typically Frisian lace knitting, between fact and fiction and Curating the Knitting! exhibition.
2.45-3.30 Hanna Bäckström – PhD Candidate in Textile Studies, Uppsala University, Sweden The publication of knitting and crochet patterns in Northern Europe 1790-1870 and Brief remarks on recent knitting history research in Sweden
3.30-4.00 Michelle Hanks – PhD Candidate London College of Fashion The Hand-Knitted Gift: using knitting as a research tool
There will be time for questions and general discussion from 4.45PM, after all the speakers have delivered their papers.
We welcome non-members and new members! Tickets cost £35 to non-members and can be booked in advance or on the door. If you have not joined KHF as a member, you can use the PayPal button below to buy your ticket. See payment methods page for alternative ways to pay.
Fourth on the provisional programme for this year’s Knitting History Forum Conference is a group discussion, “The Media Representation Of Knitting – reflections on knitting in the media and how would we represent the history of knitting?”
In order to participate fully in the conversation, before the session conference delegates will find it useful to prepare by watching the documentary ‘The Secret History of Knitting’, made by Blue Ant Media. Joyce Meader, Jane Malcolm-Davies and Sandy Black were all interviewed for the documentary and will be leading discussion. ‘The Secret History of Knitting’ can be viewed at https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B63vxlRIcfrOcDY0OWF1Nm4yZm8/view?usp=sharing
The Prince of Wales has called it the “Davos of Wool”. September 9th sees the first ever Dumfries House Wool Conference, described as a “gathering of key members of the fashion, interiors and wool industry organised by The Campaign for Wool” and “the largest and most prestigious international gathering of wool experts ever held in the United Kingdom. Animal welfare, sustainability and quality, environmental issues and slowing down fast-fashion turnover will be discussed during the conference.”
A flammability test compared a wool duvet, jacket and carpet with their synthetic counterparts
More details at The Campaign for Wool. Read Prince Charles’ own view as published in the Telegraph Magazine. It’s more measured and less sensational than the majority of ‘I set fire to / I buried my jumpers at Clarence House’ headlines in newsfeeds.
Shetland Museum and Archives are hosting a free study day on Saturday 5 March 2016, from 10:00am – 4:00pm. “Authenticity in Culturally-Based Knitting” will be the last event from the programme “Knitting in the Round: Hand-Knitted Textiles and the Economy of Craft in Scotland”.
The event aims to explore the promotion, branding and marketing of so-called ‘authentic’ Shetland knitwear, and how a strong basis in heritage affects designers and industry alike. Speakers include Professor Lynn Abrams, Roslyn Chapman, Dr Carol Christiansen, Frances Lennard, Rhoda Hughson, Kathy Coull and Helen Robertson. For more details and a programme, visit http://www.shetlandmuseumandarchives.org.uk/events/study-day-authenticity-in-culturally-based-knitting.
THE PASOLD RESEARCH FUND CONFERENCE 2012 NORDISKA MUSEET, STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN. 27-29 September, 2012
“Innovation before the Modern, Cloth and Clothing in the Early Modern World” Jointly organised by the University of Uppsala, Stockholm University, K.A.Almgren Sidenvaveri & Museum and the Nordiska Museet. In English.
41 speakers with 3 Plenary lectures, introduced by 15 chairmen; mostly from UK and Scandinavia, others from France, Spain, Italy, Russia, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and USA.
The lectures were held in the Nordiska Museet with two concurrent sessions split between the lecture theatre and a conference room in a different building. The museum’s restaurant provided delicious lunches and teas and an evening reception by invitation of the K.A.Almgren Silk Mill Museum housed in its original mill building with contemporary machinery, was visited by ferry. These friendly sessions provided the usual entertaining discussions.
Papers were very varied, from dog-skin Maori cloaks to the finest silk ribbons from Italy, Scottish linen processing to Finish sumptuary laws, and all types of textile areas and organisation. Only two of us spoke specifically about knitting but one keynote lecture stimulated discussion of the trunk hose worn by Tudor men. Each ordinary paper was restricted to 25 minutes which restrained those (often PhD students) with a lot to say in a very short time. The plenary lectures were longer and very well presented.
There were problems with the split locations as the conference room, in the stable of a nearby house, was too far away to rush between the papers in each session. It was difficult to cross the double road, negotiate gates, garden and mud between the sessions themselves. Luckily abstracts had been circulated beforehand but several attractive papers were under-supported by this difficult damp walk.
Stockholm has many attractions, sadly there was little time to explore them on this visit but it was an interesting, well organised conference with a truly international flavour giving eye-opening information. I did manage to visit Uppsala to see the Sture clothing with the tiny silk glove which Lise Warburg introduced to us in 2009 as the earliest knitting in Sweden.
The day began with our AGM, showcasing KHF successes of the past year, as well as suggestions for improvements going forward. Positive feedback highlighted the growing need for the network for knitting history, which we hope KHF events, our discussion group, the website and social media presence provide. The Show and Tell was, as always, an eclectic mix of early to modern knitting, with contributions from members’ collections and historical reproductions from members’ needles.
Carol Christiansen’s much-anticipated presentation explained the process of creating historically accurate reproductions for the Shetland Museum, of late seventeenth century knitted items found with the Gunnister Man find. Exhaustive testing of the originals and experimentation with modern fibres was necessary to accurately recreate or simulate the variety of textiles, not all of which had come from Shetland. The different colours were due primarily to peat-staining and the original shades of the natural, undyed wool.
Sandy Black introduces Carol Christiansen at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015
Kirstie Buckland brought her considerable knowledge and experience to bear on early Spanish knitting, particularly the finely-knitted silk cushions recovered from thirteenth-century tombs at the monastery at Las Huelgas. Kirstie also shared a medieval image she tracked down from a reference, showing the Virgin and Christ, accompanied by industrious saints. One of the saints knits a patterned sock on five needles, but no stitches in the painting connect the sock with the knitting needles – how miraculous!
Members at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015
Lesley O’Connell Edwards presented her research into the work and identities of the Hope family of Ramsgate, early Victorian knitting pattern designers or compilers, and publishers of several books on knitting, including patterns for essential items such as Magic Penwipers and Magic Puzzle Kettle Holders. Lesley recounted her trawl through reviews, advertisements and census records as well as hunting for clues in the knitting books themselves. A fascinating, ongoing investigation with as many twists and turns as a detective novel.
Zoe Fletcher presented a summary of her recent work into the possibilities of British wool, researching the properties of wool from different British breeds of sheep and how these properties could be exploited in knitwear design. She also demonstrated how this could be applied using Shima Seiki CAD and design systems, a marriage of traditional and modern technology. The project focussed on the 72 British breeds promoted by the British Wool Marketing Board and Zoe surprised and delighted all with her innovative approach to presenting the information in a way that is accurate, accessible and beautiful.
An innovative representation of a Swaledale sheep and its wool by Zoe Fletcher at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015
Finally, Jane Malcolm-Davies introduced the research project Knitting in the Early Modern Era, or KEME. As we related last month, KEME is based around detailed examination of surviving sixteenth century knitted caps, the wider aim of the project is interdisciplinary research, creating an economic map of early knitting and laying a foundation of terminology information on which further scholarship on knitting in Early Modern Europe may be built. In an informative and amusing presentation, Jane discussed the work so far, the methodology they would establish and invited contributions and assistance.
The Revolution Will Be Knitted: Jane Malcolm-Davies presents a paper at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015
All in all, it was another interesting event. The Knitting History Forum thanks our speakers for their engaging and informative presentations. Thank you also to everyone involved in organising the event and to all the delegates, members and non-members. This year’s symposium proved once again that the study of knitting history, while deeply interesting and often highly entertaining, is also vital both to our understanding of the past and our development of future textile technologies.
Kirstie Buckland presenting a paper at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015Knitted Victorian pence jug shown at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015Note-taking and knitting at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015Twentieth-century knitted bikini and knitting pattern, from the collection of Joyce Meader, at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015Zoe Fletcher presentsReprint of Mary Wright’s Cornish Guernseys and Knit-frocks and Lesley’s latest bibliography supplement, at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015Colourwork knitted gloves made by Shetland Islander, Bessie Jamieson, shown at the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015Original and reproduction items brought by KHF members to the Knitting History Forum Conference in November 2015