New Research: The Knitting Leaflets Project

The Knitting Leaflets Project needs volunteers to record data from knitting pattern leaflets and reveal new insights into how knitting and knitwear developed throughout the twentieth century. Dr Ellie Reed of Brunel University, UK has been given permission by the Knitting & Crochet Guild to upload images of over 5000 pattern leaflets from the KCG Collection onto citizen science platform Zooniverse. The Knitting Leaflets Project needs your help capturing data from these images through a series of questions that can be completed by knitters and non-knitters alike.

The decades between 1900 and the 1980s saw significant developments in knitting and knitwear. Produced for the mass market, pattern leaflets played a leading role in these developments. By taking part you will help to reveal new insights into this role and the lives of the women at whom the patterns were targeted.

To find out more and get started, follow this link to The Knitting Leaflets Project on Zooniverse: https://www.zooniverse.org/projects/elliereed185/knitting-leaflet-project

New Open Access Paper on Structuring Reconstructions

The journal ‘Heritage Science‘ has published an article on establishing a framework for reconstruction in scholarly research. Using textiles and dress as a template, “Structuring reconstructions: recognising the advantages of interdisciplinary data in methodical research” by Jane Malcolm-Davies also discusses interdisciplinary collaboration, demonstrating the value of integrating methodology from arts and humanities with those of natural sciences, involving scholars, scientists, makers and other specialists to promote more accurate understanding. One of the case studies includes details of a research project which is applying multiple methodologies to shed new light on the making and historical context of a seventeenth century knitted waistcoat. ‘Heritage Science’ is peer-reviewed and open access and the paper may be read or downloaded here: https://link.springer.com/epdf/10.1186/s40494-023-00982-9

Knitting and Crochet Books in The Bodleian Libraries

The Bodleian Libraries consists of 27 libraries across Oxford and contains over 13 million items, of which over 1 million are categorized as ‘special collection’ items. The Bodleian is the current custodian of Esther Potter’s 141 item collection of knitting and crochet books and leaflets that Potter donated in 2012. Potter’s journal article and book list of English Knitting and Crochet Books of the Nineteenth Century published in The Library in 1955 is an excellent starting point for anyone researching nineteenth century printed instructions for knitting and crochet. When I visited the Bodleian as part of my MA research in 2018, Potter’s items had been absorbed into the John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera. There were 4 archive boxes with the reference ‘Fancy Work’ that contained the leaflets and booklets including many from Potter’s list. The books are available from the main catalogue. 12 of Potter’s items have been digitised and available to view online.

The Bodleian Library catalogue is available to search online at http://solo.bodleian.ox.ac.uk

To search for the items donated by Potter select Advanced Search. Set [Search Scope = Oxford Collections] and [copy-specific Notes contains “ether potter”].

For the John Johnson Collection a good starting point is the research guide page of the Bodleian Libraries website https://libguides.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/jj or go directly to the website for the collection https://www2.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/johnson which includes a link to the online image catalogue of c. 74,000 items.

Sally Kentfield

References

ESTHER POTTER, English Knitting and Crochet Books of the Nineteenth Century, The Library, Volume s5-X, Issue 1, March 1955, Pages 25–40, https://doi.org/10.1093/library/s5-X.1.25

ESTHER POTTER, English Knitting and Crochet Books of the Nineteenth Century, The Library, Volume s5-X, Issue 2, June 1955, Pages 103–119, https://doi.org/10.1093/library/s5-X.2.103

Richard Rutt and Frances Lambert

When Richard Rutt wrote A history of hand knitting he hoped his work would ‘be useful in stimulating others to write in greater details and with greater accuracy’ about knitting history.(1) However, Rutt notes that ‘Because this is not an academic thesis I have forsworn the full delights of notes and page references’ which can be frustrating when using Rutt as a launching point for further research and investigation.(2) Rutt’s work stimulated the focus of my master’s thesis on the Victorian authors discussed in chapter 5 The Victorian age and the belle époque due to the brevity of the available information. The last line, ‘We know no more’, of the section on Frances Lambert was an imperative to find out more.(3) To pass it forward to the next generation of researchers here are the relevant citations for the section on Frances Lambert. I hope other researchers can expand on individual sections of Rutt to build up an expanding knowledgebase to stimulate further research.

The Handbook of needlework published by John Murray in 1842 is available from the British Library.(4) The British Library (5) and the Cowie Collection within the University of Reading Special Collections (6) both have copies of the 3rd edition published in 1843. So far I have been unable to locate a copy of the 5th edition published in 1847.

Rutt refers to two American printings of the Handbook of needlework though Lambert is adamant that they are pirated copies and dedicates a paragraph to the subject of piracy in the preface to the 2nd edition. There are multiple copies online that can be found via WorldCat published in Philadelphia and New York. Take care as some editions contain multiple authors combined. For example, the 1854 edition digitized by Cornell University contains both the Handbook of needlework and Gaugain’s Miniature knitting, netting, and crochet book.(7)

Rutt references the Workwoman’s book published in 1838 which has been digitized by the University of California and is available via the Hathi Trust.(8)

Lambert first published My knitting book in 1843.(9) Rutt refers to the second series published in 1845 though I could only find a second series copy in the British Library dated 1846.(10) The 1847 printing of the second series contains reference to being the twenty-third thousand.(11) So far unable to locate a copy of the first volume published in 1847 that contained a reference to forty-two thousand.

Rutt talks about two addresses for Lambert’s shop premises. In the 1838 Kelly’s Post Office directory the address is 7 Conduit Street (12) and in the 1841 and 1843 directories the address is 3 New Burlington Street.(13) The directory entry for 1838 is: ‘embroideress to the Queen & repository for fancy needlework & drawings’. Lambert held a Royal Warrant of Appointment for supplying embroidery and needlework for Queen Victoria.(14)

Rutt ends the section with ‘we know no more’ and now we know considerably more. A full biography for Lambert has been submitted to the Oxford Dictionary of Biography for consideration.

Sally Kentfield

References

1 Richard Rutt, A History of Hand Knitting / Richard Rutt. (London: Batsford, 1987). p. vi
2 Rutt.
3 Rutt. p. 113
4 Frances Lambert, The Hand-Book of Needlework (London: John Murray, 1842), British Library.
5 Frances Lambert, The Hand-Book of Needlework, 3rd edn (London: John Murray, 1843), British Library.
6 Frances Lambert, The Hand-Book of Needlework, 3rd edn (London: John Murray, 1843), University of Reading Special Collections.
7 Frances Lambert, Handbook of Needlework (Philadelphia: Hazard, 1851), Hathi Trust <https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100761878>.
8 Sarah Josepha Buell Hale, The Workwoman’s Guide: Containing Instructions to the Inexperienced in Cutting out and Completing Those Articles of Wearing Apparel, &c. Which Are Ususally Made at Home : Also, Explanations on Upholstery, Straw-Platting, Bonnet-Making, Knitting, &c (England: Simpkin, Marshall and Co. …, 1838) <https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100191648> [accessed 2 July 2022].
9 Frances Lambert, My Knitting Book (London: John Murray, 1843) <http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/33502>.
10 Frances Lambert, My Knitting Book, 2 (London: John Murray, 1846), British Library.
11 Miss. Lambert, My Knitting Book, Second, Twenty-third thousand, 1847, University of Southampton Knitting Reference Library <https://archive.org/details/krl00394036>.
12 ‘London Post Office Directories’, MF/071, London Metropolitan Archive.
13 ‘London Post Office Directories’, MF/072 and MF/073, London Metropolitan Archive.
14 ‘Lord Chamberlain’s Department: Office of Robes: Letter Books’, 1837, LC 13/2, The National Archives, Kew.

Grand Textiles from Small Islands

The current edition of the Journal for Weavers, Spinners & Dyers includes a short piece by Carol Christiansen, Curator at the Shetland Museum and Archives and a previous speaker at the Knitting History Forum ConferenceIssue #280 Winter 2021 of the Journal contains her article ‘Grand Textiles from Small Islands’, a reminder of how important both local collections and specialist national textile collections are both as historical record and inspiration for the future. The Shetland Museum and Archives collection is particularly well-stocked in knitted items because of the rich heritage of knitting in the Shetland Isles, from characterful colourwork to utilitarian garments to exquisite Shetland lace.

The Journal is the quarterly magazine of the Association of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners & Dyers in the UK. Available in print and digital formats, issues are available by subscription or one-off purchase at the Journal website https://journalwsd.org.uk/shop.

Holy Hands : Ceremonial Knitted Gloves for Elite Churchmen

More news about the Holy Hands research project into early knitted liturgical gloves: the latest issue of The Journal of Dress History includes the article ‘Holy Hands: Ceremonial Knitted Gloves for Elite Churchmen in Europe from the Twelfth to Nineteenth Centuries’, by Lesley O’Connell Edwards, discussing the Holy Hands research project, with extensive discussion of the documentary evidence and technical analysis of the gloves themselves as well as reflecting on their makers. The Journal of Dress History is published by the Association of Dress Historians. Volume 5, Issue 5 for Late Autumn 2021, is free to download at the ADH website https://dresshistorians.org/journal/

Lesley will be speaking at the online Knitting History Forum Conference on Saturday 13 November 2021. Book your ticket online via https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/khf-online-conference-2021-heads-hands-feet-tickets-181878713127. A programme and further details are available here https://knittinghistory.co.uk/events/knitting-history-forum-conference-2021-heads-hands-feet/

Stocking Knitting In Sixteenth Century Norwich

Elizabethan knitting is the subject of a newly-published article in the journal ‘Textile History’. Lesley O’Connell Edwards’s paper is entitled ‘The Stocking Knitting Industry of Later Sixteenth-Century Norwich‘ and its focus is a subject with popular interest but surprisingly little academic investigation. As the abstract explains: “Knitted garments became increasingly common throughout the sixteenth century in England, and it has been estimated that the production of stockings alone occupied at least 90,000 knitters at the end of the century. Knitting as an economic process in England has been little studied in this period. This paper examines the evidence for knitting as an industry in the later sixteenth century in Norwich, the second city in England, when it provided a source of employment for over seven per cent of the poorest people. It provides quantitative data for the socio-economic background of knitters in the 1570s, and for the minimum volume of production in the early 1580s. It analyses other evidence for this industry, including the production process and contemporary writings.”

Lesley, a long-standing member of KHF, has presented well-received papers at previous Knitting History conferences. She maintains the invaluable Bibliography Of The History Of Knitting Before 1600 and has published other pieces on early knitting, some of which are included in KHF’s select Knitting History Reading List. This latest work, which includes material from her recent masters’ dissertation, is based on her ongoing research into sixteenth century knitting. Textile History is a peer-reviewed journal published on behalf of the Pasold Research Fund. Lesley’s article is available by subscription at the Textile History website https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/00404969.2021.1923342?

Handknitting and Handknits in British Domestic Magazines, 1910–1939

The Early Summer 2021 issue of The Journal of Dress History includes Dr Eleanor Reed’s article on twentieth century knitting, “For Those Who Enjoy an Interesting Piece of Knitting:” Handknitting and Handknits in British Domestic Magazines, 1910–1939. The abstract reads: “Although early to mid twentieth century histories of handknitting are well documented, comparatively little research has been undertaken into the role in these histories of domestic magazines, which, appealing to and working to generate mass readerships of skilled and enthusiastic knitters, supported — and sought to profit from — a precipitous rise in the handicraft’s popularity. This article uses quantitative and qualitative analysis of The Knitting and Crochet Guild’s collection of 1910−1939 British domestic magazine knitting patterns to explore these publications’ treatment of handknitting and knitwear during a period in which knitting’s popularity soared, and the women’s magazine market boomed. Surveying a sample of 2538 patterns from 367 magazines representing 46 titles, this article spotlights, besides a rise in the popularity of knitwear and handknitting, a fall in the assumed expertise of knitters targeted by domestic magazines, and a growing intimacy in the commercial partnerships between these publications, yarn manufacturers, and pattern designers.”

The focus of Dr Reed’s research is on early to mid twentieth century domestic magazines and she gave an insightful presentation on 1958 knitting patterns in Woman’s Weekly magazine at the Knitting History Forum Conference in 2018 (in those heady days when we could all gather in person). The Journal of Dress History is peer-reviewed and published by the Association of Dress Historians. The Early Summer 2021 edition, Volume 5, Issue 2, is free to download at the ADH website  https://dresshistorians.org/journal/

Classic Knits of the 1980s by Sandy Black

Classic Knits of the 1980s by Sandy Black Three Cats design – click to enlarge

At the Knitting History Conference last year, Sandy Black mentioned her latest book, ‘Classic Knits of the 1980s’, which was published in January 2021.

Many of us know Sandy Black as Professor of Fashion and Textile Design and Technology at the London College of Fashion and Chair of Knitting History Forum, but prior to that she had a successful career as designer and director of the ‘Sandy Black Original Knits’ label from the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s.

Publisher Crowood Press notes how the book discusses “the principal fundamentals of knitwear design and features original, colourful, textural and fun knitting patterns that capture the fashion zeitgeist of the 1980s designer knitwear boom” and includes “a range of innovative designs from Sandy Black knitting kits, many published here for the first time.”

“Part 1 establishes the fashion and knitwear context of the period and its influence on the development of the designs, examining the entire creative process from inspiration to final pattern.

Lavishly illustrated with photographs, diagrams and charts, special features include patchwork (modular) designs and intarsia or colour-block knitting, with techniques and tips for pattern calculations, working from charts and handling several colours.”

“Part 2 then offers twenty-one original patterns and designs, grouped into themes of textural, graphic, heraldic and ornamental, plus the unique Siamese cat, leopard and tiger accessories. Contemporary photography, together with original images from the 1980s, illustrates the designs’ timeless appeal, with close-up images of intricate pattern details and suggested design variations to aid creative knitters.”

Some may consider the 1980s so recent as hardly to seem like history at all, yet then as now it was a time of revived interest in traditional knitting and intense creativity in new knitting design. Knitwear of the period is already receiving academic attention and one of Sandy’s designs, ‘Fairisle Fun’, with her kit and the jumper knitted from it (as seen to the right), are held in the collections of the V&A Museum https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O68250/knitting-kit-black-sandy/.
Well-illustrated and with technical information as well as patterns of Sandy’s fresh and ebullient
designs, ‘Classic Knits of the 1980s’ is a welcome
introduction to the work of a pioneer of modern fashion knitwear which will be of interest to
knitters and historians of knitting and dress alike.